1. Port-aux-Basques, Newfoundland
There are no longer trains in Newfoundland, so you have
bus and take the ferry from the west coast. It’s 12
hours across the island and then 8 on the ferry. It costs $20 to walk
on to the ferry. Dress warm, bring food, and try not to make Titanic jokes. |
2. Cape Breton Highway
After the ferry arrived early in the morning, I took a shuttle van from the coast of Cape Breton to Truro in east-central
Nova Scotia. Cape Breton’s, uh, charms continue to elude me, but the van was warm in mid-November. |
3. Truro, Nova Scotia
In Truro I met up with the Via train station. It’s a little place with a
surprising amount of history, and there’s a display with chunks of the Berlin wall. I board in the afternoon and pass through New Brunswick in the evening. |
4. Old Montreal, Quebec
3 pm to 9 am the next morning. I went to the old quarter with my aunt. It would of course be more lively in the summer, but it was mild weather and the smoked meat sandwiches were nice. Knowing a little French will help, but people seemed equally willing to
be rude in English if necessary. |
5. Parliament, Ottawa, ON
Parliament is beautiful, and there was some excitement
as CBC was preparing for the federal election inside. The people in Ottawa seemed as welcoming as the climate, but at least they let me come in. This was the year before 9/11. Imagine sailing into parliament now at midnight with no I.D. |
6. Public Rink, Toronto
Five hours from Ottawa. I checked out the Much-Music building, couldn’t afford to tour the CN tower, and felt
accepted despite not having bathed for, uh, a while. The city has a reputation for being arrogant, but I found it fairly
walkable and inviting. It didn’t take much to be friendlier than Ottawa. A stopoff for a few days with friends in nearby Kitchener. |
7. Winnipeg, Manitoba
It’s a long way from Toronto, almost thirty hours on the train through not very interesting Canadian shield scenery. ‘Winterpeg’ has two seasons: winter and mosquitos. A lot of bands and comedians seem to come from here. I think you need a sense of humor to live in Winnipeg. |
8. Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
It’s another seven hours to Saskatoon. But it was November, the trains were quiet, and
I slept well. For someone who gets motion-sick in a revolving door,
trains were no problem, even for reading. And if there’s a crying baby,
there’s always another car open (to throw it into: juuust kidding...) |
9. Jasper, AB
An hour or so after Hinton we arrive in Jasper National Park and the town itself. Jasper is a very expensive place to stay and that this point in my trip, going out for lunch is an extravagence. We have an hour break to look around. It’s cool here even in summer and in December it’s freezing. |
10. Jasper, AB
Jasper can be a cheesy, overpriced tourist trap, but it
has the goods: world-class mountains, scenery, and skiing. It was
about -30o Celsius that day, and so the train was filled with grumbling
skiers after many resorts closed. Jasper the bear never complains. |
11. Rocky Mountains
Despite it really getting pretty cold up there, this is a fun part of the trip to sit in the second-floor observation car. As we move into British Columbia you
chug through some pretty shaky mountain passes. The train never falls off the mountain, right, conductor? ...conductor? |
12. Vancouver, British Columbia
About 16 hours from Jasper. Vancouver is a 24-hour a day
traffic jam, but it does have beauty and a cosmopolitan life.
A stay here with family, and then back to Edmonton. It was near Christmas and the train was crowded, which
meant a crying baby in each car. |